When the UK winter settles in - as it very much has - our thoughts naturally drift toward winter warmers. The sort of dishes that take their time. Deep, slow-cooked affairs traditionally associated with beef, pork and lamb: shin bubbling away for hours, shoulders surrendering gradually to heat, patience and a glass of something warming. They are the stalwarts of cold weather cooking, built for short days, long nights and kitchens that feel like refuges from the chill outside.
But it’s worth pausing to consider chicken. Often overlooked in this low-and-slow conversation, it can more than hold its own when the temperature drops. It delivers comfort and richness in much the same way - the good news being that it doesn’t demand quite the same commitment as, say, a shin of beef that won’t even consider tenderness until half the day has passed. Chicken brings warmth, depth and generosity, just on a slightly more forgiving timetable.
In fact, the other day in the shop, right at the end of a shift, we found ourselves in a surprisingly profound discussion about chicken. As knives were put down and aprons untied, the conversation drifted toward what a fantastic product it really is - recipes, techniques, traditions, and the sheer breadth of possibilities. And we came to the philosophical conclusion that, as an ingredient, chicken is quite simply boundless.
(Yes, butchers can be philosophical, you know.)
But do we shout about it enough? Not really. And so it came to pass, with a fist gently but firmly on the table, that we should sing a little louder about our free-range poultry - sourced from Adlington Farm in Warwickshire - particularly now, when winter has dug its heels in and looks in no hurry to leave the UK.
This is a proper cold-weather warmer: a comforting combination of leek, tarragon, mustard and cream. It delivers a rich kick at the start, reassurance all the way through, and finally that deep, satisfied sigh that only comes once something warming and generous has been safely tucked away in your belly - preferably while the rain lashes the windows.
Two chicken breasts and two chicken oyster legs will comfortably see four people through a bleak evening. But feel free to mix things up: breast only, perhaps, or thighs if that’s your preference. Better still, buy a whole chicken and break it down at home - if you’re feeling brave. The leftover meat will earn its keep in another meal (risotto, anyone?) and the bones will make a stock that feels like central heating in a saucepan.
Like we said, the possibilities are boundless.
Ingredients - serves 4
25ml vegetable oil
2 sprigs rosemary
3 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
1 small bunch of tarragon
25g unsalted butter
3 large leeks, trimmed and sliced into rounds
500ml medium cider
300ml double cream
2 tbsp English mustard
Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method
First, season the chicken pieces generously and place a large frying pan over the hob on a medium to high. Add the chicken breast and legs to pan, skin down and fry for 5 minutes to brown off
Turn everything over and add the thyme, rosemary and bay and cook off for another 3 minutes.
Take a casserole or pot and place that on the hob, over a medium heat and add the butter. Once it has melted, add the leeks and stir through for a good 10 minutes, until the leeks are nice and soft.
Chop up half the tarragon, stalks and all and add to the leeks, stirring through for another two minutes before adding the cider. Reduce by half and then add the cream, mustard and the chicken legs only at this stage.
Bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes and then add the chicken breast to the pot, to cook for another 15 minutes. Leave the pot uncovered, so that the sauce reduces and thickens.
The chicken will be done after this time but if you like the meat to be extra tender, simply cook for another 10 minutes.
Check for seasoning right at the end and serve with creamy mashed potato.
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