Well, we think we can safely say it now. Summer is packing its bags. The mornings are getting cooler, the evenings are drawing in and we’re beginning to look at the barbecue with slightly less enthusiasm and the casserole pot with considerably more.
And that is absolutely fine by us.
Because the changing of the seasons means we can start getting properly stuck into the cuts that reward a few hours of low, slow cooking. And few do that quite as magnificently as oxtail.
Rich, deeply beefy and packed with all that lovely gelatin and connective tissue that slowly breaks down during cooking, oxtail has an almost magical ability to transform itself. Give it a few hours in the oven and what starts as a fairly robust-looking cut becomes meltingly tender, while simultaneously giving body and richness to the gravy around it.
In other words, this is exactly the sort of meat you want bubbling away in the kitchen when there’s a definite nip in the air.
We’ve gone fairly classic here with red wine, onion, carrot, celery, garlic, bay and a good grating of nutmeg. Nothing particularly clever. It doesn’t need it.
But then come the dumplings. Because at the heart of all great stews, there really should be a dumpling, of sorts.
You can, of course, go down the creamy mash route. Pearl barley will bulk things out very nicely too. And hunks of crusty bread for mopping the bowl afterwards are rarely going to attract complaints. But that can all get a touch stodgy.
A light, fluffy dumpling steamed on top of a bubbling pot of oxtail, red wine and bay leaf, on the other hand, sits rather nicely indeed. We’ve used fresh parsley and thyme in ours, although dried mixed herbs will do the job perfectly well if that’s what you’ve got lurking at the back of the cupboard.
Richard H. Turner would probably take things one step further and make bone marrow dumplings. Bone marrow being something of a superfood in Chef’s opinion. If you want the lowdown on that particular rabbit hole, just drop us a line. We’ll put you in touch with the marrow department.
OXTAIL STEW WITH HERBY DUMPLINGS
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
For the oxtail
1kg oxtail
2 tbsp plain flour
2 tbsp butter
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 celery stick, finely chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
3 bay leaves
½ fresh nutmeg, grated
1 bottle red wine
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the dumplings
225g self-raising flour
Pinch of salt
50g cold butter, cubed
1 tbsp freshly chopped thyme
1 tbsp freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley
8-10 tbsp cold water
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 150°C. Place the oxtail into a bowl, sprinkle over the flour and season generously with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Toss everything together until the pieces are evenly coated.
Place a large ovenproof casserole over a medium heat and add the butter. Once foaming, add the oxtail and brown thoroughly on all sides. Take your time here - colour equals flavour. Remove the browned oxtail and set aside on a plate.
Turn the heat down slightly and add the onion, celery and carrot to the residual fat in the casserole. Cook gently for around 10 minutes, until softened. Add the garlic and bay leaves and cook for another minute.
Return the oxtail to the casserole, add the grated nutmeg, Dijon mustard and red wine and bring everything up to a gentle simmer. Pop the lid on and transfer to the oven for around 3 hours, until the oxtail is beautifully tender and beginning to surrender itself from the bone.
FOR THE DUMPLINGS
While the oxtail is cooking, place the flour and salt into a large bowl. Add the cold butter and rub it into the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.
Add the thyme and parsley, then gradually mix in enough cold water to bring everything together into a soft, smooth dough. Divide and shape into 8 dumplings, then place them in the fridge for around 30 minutes to firm up.
Around 20-25 minutes before the oxtail has finished cooking, remove the casserole from the oven and check the seasoning. Sit the dumplings on top of the stew, replace the lid and return to the oven.
For softer, steamed dumplings, leave the lid on. If you prefer them with slightly golden tops, remove the lid for the final part of cooking.
Serve the oxtail in deep bowls with two fluffy dumplings per person and plenty of that dark, glossy gravy spooned over the top.
And despite everything we said earlier, you’re probably going to want some bread for mopping up.
We would.
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